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Pre-Season Wake-Up: Bringing a Stored Machine Back Safely

A machine that sat all winter needs more than a battery charge before the first ride, and the order of the checks matters.

Applies toPolaris Ranger XP 1000 2017–2026 · Polaris Ranger 570 2015–2026 · Can-Am Defender HD10 2016–2026 · Can-Am Outlander 850 2016–2026 · Yamaha Wolverine RMAX2 1000 2021–2026 · KTM 350 EXC-F 2012–2026 · Honda CRF450RX 2017–2026

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The first ride of the season is when a lot of machines break, and not because they were ridden hard. They break because something that was fine in the fall quietly went wrong over four months in a shed. Rubber hardens, fuel degrades, rodents move in, and batteries discharge. A wake-up routine is mostly a matter of looking at everything once before asking it to work, and the list is the same whether you have a utility side-by-side, a quad or a dirt bike.

Begin before you turn the key. Open the airbox and look for nesting material, because rodents like airboxes and a nest that gets pulled into the intake on first start is a bad start to the year. Check the air filter while you are there. On a dirt bike the site's reminder is to clean and re-oil the filter about every 5 hours, and a filter that sat oiled all winter may have dried out or collected debris. On a UTV or ATV, a filter that was left dirty at the end of the season is due now.

Look at the fuel. If the tank was filled and treated with a stabilizer before storage, it is probably fine. If it was left part-full and untreated, the fuel may have degraded and the tank may have condensation in it. Drain a small amount from the lowest point and look at it. If it is cloudy, layered, or smells wrong, drain and replace it rather than trying to burn it off. Carbureted bikes are worst affected because varnish in a jet is a bike that will not idle.

Check every fluid level before starting, in the manual's order. Engine oil, coolant, brake fluid and, where fitted, gearcase and differential levels. If the machine went into storage on old oil, change it now. The UTV and ATV reminder is about every 100 hours or 12 months, and a machine that sat all winter has probably reached the months limit even if it has not reached the hours. On a dirt bike the interval is about every 15 hours, and the oil that sat in the oil pan all winter has condensation in it regardless.

The battery is usually the first thing an owner thinks of and often the only thing they check. Put it on a proper charger, not a jump start, and let it reach full charge before you test it. A battery that will not hold charge after a full cycle is a battery to replace, not to nurse. Check the terminals for corrosion and clean them. While you have the seat off, look at the wiring for chewed insulation, which is the other thing rodents do.

Tires lose pressure over a winter and sidewalls can develop cracks if they sat under load in a cold shed. Inflate to the value in your manual or on the tire placard, not to a number from the internet, and inspect each sidewall by running your hand around it. On a truck or SUV, the site's reminder is to rotate tires and inspect sidewalls about every 5,000 miles, and the note is that rock damage often shows on the sidewall before anywhere else. A winter is a good moment to catch that.

Brakes are next. Fluid absorbs moisture over time and a winter of sitting does not help. Check the reservoir and the pad thickness. The UTV reminder is about every 50 hours or six months for pads and fluid, so a machine that was stored is most likely past the months limit. On a dirt bike the pad interval is about every 20 hours, and pads that were thin in the fall will not have grown. Squeeze the lever or press the pedal before you move and make sure it feels the way you remember.

On a chain-driven bike, clean, lube and check tension before the first ride. The site's reminder is about every 3 hours, which means a chain that sat unlubed for four months is well overdue. Look at the sprocket teeth for hooking. On a shaft-driven ATV, the final drive check is about every 50 hours and the note is that shaft drives need their oil level checked. Do that now, because a low gearcase is silent until it is not.

Now start it. Let it idle and listen. Watch for leaks at every joint you can see, watch the temperature, and check that the fan comes on. Ride it slowly around the yard and test the brakes and steering before you go anywhere near a trail. After that first short ride, go around the fasteners. Vibration walks them loose and a machine that sat can have hardware that seemed tight when it went away. The values are in your service manual.

Finally, check that the trails you are planning on are actually open. Many regions close for spring thaw to protect soft ground, and the season dates shift year to year with the weather rather than the calendar. Riding a closed trail in the wet does lasting damage and puts the whole area at risk of a longer closure. Confirm conditions with the managing agency first.

Fitment in this piece was checked against 6 catalog entries at the time of writing. Confirm with the supplier before buying or installing.

This is an archive piece. It was published from the site's reference archive when the site was set up, not written by the editorial engine: no model was called for it and none of the engine's gates ran on it. Its sources are the ones listed above.

Nothing here replaces your service manual. Torque values, capacities and pressures must come from the manufacturer's published data for your exact machine.

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